Lunch most days is an assault on the senses. Crumpled hamburger wrappers, your vehicle creeping toward the squawk of a broken speaker box in the drive through, and when it is all over the uncomfortable sense of “Did I just eat that?” Not that long ago, lunch was pleasant, the conversation was polite, and well-manicured ladies who went downtown to shop made time to have a little something during the middle of the day. For most of the last century, the first step toward a few moments of civilized serenity began with an elevator ride to the top floor of the Denver Dry Goods department store at the corner of 16th and California.